I’ll be honest: much of the food in Bali didn’t impress me, even at the high-end Ayana resort where the family trip’s main party (and main objective of the trip) was held. But Mandapa? That was on another level. From Kubu to what might be the best villa breakfast buffet I’ve ever had, it was a solid 10/10 in every regard.
Mandapa is madness: excruciating luxury, impeccable service, and a rare warmth that makes the whole place feel as if it exists just for you. Every corner turned came with a smile, a sweetness, and strangely, this sense of home. This post is an aside from my usual subsections, with a sole focus on Kubu at Mandapa… less a hidden gem than a glowing pod in a tucked-away resort, and yet, somehow, still sort of both. One moment you’re driving through Ubud, taking in the stonework, vibrant colors, and artistry of Bali’s cultural hub, and then, down a quiet alley, it suddenly appears. Towering stone walls draped in snaking greenery rise before you, leading into the heart of what might be the most majestic villa resort in Bali.
Privileged to have had the chance to eat at some seriously fine restaurants, and after a little reflection, I can say Kubu easily holds its place among them for flavour, skill, and technique. It really is a destination in an and of itself. Starting with the unique fusion of mussel, oxalis and tomato, you start to realize that one must be able to eat everything to enjoy this experience. It was earthy, with the slight chew of mussels, and the pop of tang from exploding inure, or whatever seemed to be like the salty fish eggs.
The meat-and-carb pairing that followed was playful on the palate, not as rich or layered as some of the other courses, but still delivered a satisfying, concentrated pop of flavour.
The smear of raw fish mixed with marigold vinegar emulsion was genius – a sweet tartness and then down-to-earth notes of what seemed adjacent to saffron, though it was difficult to pin down upon the first taste. It was buttery-smooth, sweet, and silky.
I vividly remember the smooth, buttery ease of slicing into this piece of meat, and how strong and sweet the onion puree on the side tasted as well. Delicate, tender, yet rich enough to remember. It didn’t taste overly gamey, just a rare and savoury piece of duck without a semblance of rubberiness.
A deceptively simple dish of mixed beans (5 different types, I believe) with cashew cream egg confit, which you plop on the beans just before you start eating – mixing it all together you get this creamy, crunchy amalgamation of salty earth and rich yolk basted in oil.
Arguably the least impressive of the lot, nevertheless it acted somewhat like a palate cleanser – clean lines and texture and flavour of white fish, reminiscent of the simple homeliness of steamed Chinese fish during a weekday dinner.
Ok, this beef! The menu lets you choose between this cut or wagyu, but with the richness of the other courses, the standard striploin more than holds its own. One bite in and all of us went, oh my god. Incredibly tender, full of flavour, cooked perfectly medium-rare, and paired with the silkiest potato purée that felt like a song straight to the heart. Even the humble carrot was flawless, and the accompanying potato mille-feuille – buttery, crisp, and layered, was a little masterpiece on its own. So much detail and attention was paid to the smallest things. That’s the mark of a good restaurant.
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